micetrail

Travel adventures & observations – local and global

  • Interesting…the year 2019 was supposed to be a non-travel year. Since I traveled so much in 2018, my thoughts went to a rest for 2019. But suppositions don’t make reality and the year hadn’t finished Spring when my friend Andrew suggested we head off to the Chelsea Flower Show and surrounds.

    I did write and post some updates on that trip. Being in England it seemed silly not to head down to Lisbon for a couple of weeks before heading home. As it turns out my little mishap on the escalator in Lisbon forced me to a two week rest before I got home. I believe I did update you all on that fiasco. What I don’t think I mentioned is going to a clinic to get my bandage changed and my stitches removed.

    I decided to head out on my crutches over the cobblestones to the nearest clinic which was about 3 streets down the hill…not far. It was a Saturday morning and I figured no one would be out and about until later. So, crutching it down the hill slowly I did come across some people out and about. It turns out I was in good company with the old folks who also were making their way around on either crutches or canes. Very amusing.

    Finally, heading for home I made a stop in Seville, as it had a good connection to Barcelona and Norwegian Airlines where I could pick up a non-stop to SFO. Seville was great; I had a lovely little Airbnb close to the center; purchased an Airbnb experience to a deli deal where I sampled Iberico ham, cheese, and some wine. I was the only one participating and received some hermetically sealed supplies for me to smuggle home. Eventually, I arrived in San Francisco and thought my non-travel travel was over for the year. Well…I just couldn’t resist an up and coming trip to Poland and the Czech Republic that worked well with timing on some friends of mine meeting me in Lisbon in September. So, why not?

    This is pretty much where I left off on my micetrail updates for the year. So, I’ll fill you in on my trip to Poland and the Czech Republic.

    I arrived into Warsaw on a gray dismal day, ahead of the small group I was joining. This was an A&K planned itinerary with about 15 people. Heading out from my B&B I walked down to the Science & Technology Center (similar to the Exploratorium in San Francisco).

    On my way, I enjoyed a mocha at a great little coffee shop and also had some beet risotto. Delicious.

    I strolled around afterwards along the river, took the elevator up to the Soviet-era central tower, visited the doll house museum and then headed for dinner at my B&B. Quite nice…the food, not the ambiance.

    Warsaw has few buildings that existed before the war…the entire city was razed by the Germans in the last throes of the war. The Warsaw uprising in 1944 killed thousands and though the Russians promised to come to the Poles rescue, they waited on the other side of the river while the Germans pummeled the City. Once the Germans left the Russians came in and took over. Most of the buildings are all Soviet style…blocky with huge monuments to the working class. Only a few Art Deco buildings remain.

    The next day after an excellent breakfast and sitting down with the owner and some guests from the U.S., we tried to keep from talking about politics. But, of course, that came up and, it was good to see that most tended toward the liberal side and couldn’t believe the pumpkin we had for a president.

    I joined a walking tour through an AB&B experience. I have had such good luck with these local-provided tours. The guides have a speciality; most of them are students and have a very detailed knowledge of their subjects. This particular experience was mostly a stroll through the the parks of which there are many and really a saving grace for Warsaw. We walked through areas where folks were growing their own vegetables, past some small houses that were built after the war for people who had lost their homes, visited a couple of Art Deco buildings and the expansive Parliament Building. Our guide left us off at what I would term an upscale food court…multiple restaurants. I did have a complaint with him as he walked me back toward my hotel…on his description of the experience there were to be refreshments at the “food court.” He wrote me later that he “forgot” that was on the experience. I believe he has since taken it off.

    Back at my B&B, I had signed up for a Chopin concert there. A woman that was studying music at the academy was the artist. She was so emotive, I paid more attention to her then to the music. I have to say…it was a bit exhausting.

    The next day, I headed over to join my group at the “Royal” hotel. The usual welcome dinner and meet and greet. Mostly peeps from the U.S….in fact, all of them were from the U.S. Some Michiganers (one couple conservative…Trump voters but asking for forgiveness), Newport Beach (not admitting she was a Trump voter), several other Californians (Trump haters)…a fairly eclectic group.

    We journeyed around Warsaw by bus and visited the Jewish museum, stopped at many war memorials (some haunting and beautiful), and visited the Rising (as in uprising) Museum which is amazing. An experience of the horrible suffering the Poles went through during the war. There is archive footage, sounds, walls and underground events going on to support the uprising…printing press…children delivering messages…hideouts…a plane above that delivered supplies…and so on. This is worth visiting Warsaw on its own.

    Oh, yes…another Chopin concert and a visit to the Royal Palace. And, the same day, I had booked another Airbnb experience which was a Chopin “tour.” I was the only one on this tour and met a lovely woman who showed me the University and where Chopin had lived, where his heart is kept in the pillar of a church and benches throughout the main strolling area filled with shops and restaurants. The benches each have a Chopin tune that you can listen to…pretty cool. And finally…guess what? Another Chopin concert. All part of the experience.

    Anyway I felt pretty Chopined-out at this point. Tomorrow heading with the group to Kraków and Auschwitz/Berkenau.

  • If you have luggage do not, DO NOT, take the escalator. Look for the nearest elevator and Wait. A little late for advice but…next time.

    Handling one small roll-aboard, a back pack, my purse and a bag with 2 boxes of Lucky Charms (for a friend), I popped on the Metro escalator coming from the airport. Almost home and only one more escalator to go, I tried to catch my little roll-aboard as it teetered on a step. Big mistake. I should have let it go but reactions just take over. Anyway, I managed to slide down about nine steps on my back, bowled over an elderly Portuguese woman, and ended up with my feet on step 19 and my head on step 10. Some Good Samaritan managed to hit the stop button so at least I finally stopped sliding down the steps.

    Unbelievably I managed to stand up and start stepping up the now-stopped escalator. The Metro Manager ran over and attended briefly to the Portuguese bowling pin and then saw me with my hand full of blood. I kept trying to cup it so the blood wouldn’t spill over. I had no idea, for about 5 minutes, that I couldn’t walk. A young woman came over and held me up until the Metro Manager could get me to their little cubicle and provide a chair. Of course, I kept telling them I was OK and tried to stem the blood by pinching my thumb pad together. They just were not listening!

    Long story short (sort of) the ambulance was called, the EMTs came and attended to me and took me, UP THE ELEVATOR, in a wheelchair to the hospital. Very efficient…the EMTs, not the hospital. Five hours later I had 10 stitches in my hand and xrays to find out nothing was broken. The orthopedist wanted me to have a CT scan to see if there was a fracture but rolled his eyes when I asked how long that would take. I told him “no” since the treatment was the same…RICE.

    Luckily I have a friend I could call and he picked me up at the hospital, bought some groceries, and transported me home. I’m not sure what I would have done otherwise…taxi I guess.

    So, here I sit catching up on every Netflix series and movie that was ever made and ordering from Uber Eats. Hobbling around on crutches 5 days later but better every day. Shredded hand, bloody suitcase, bloody purse but amazingly, nothing dripped on the Lucky Charms or on my linen jacket. Can’t say the same for the Metro station. Ha!

    My fellow injurees…….I got off easy.

  • It’s been some time since I’ve been in touch but I just got the writing “jones” to update any of you interested peeps.  If you’ve kept up you might know I’ve been traveling in Europe and North Africa for a little over 9 months…a welcome relief.  But it is wonderful to be home…  Today I went out to the Bay in the sun/rain and managed my mocha and donut at the Little Marina Green kiosk. It was a spectacular day with high tides, sailboat races, and lordy, lordy…a double rainbow.   OK, the second rainbow is pretty faint but, nevertheless…

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    I recently returned from Ethiopia where I traveled with a tiny group of four, including my neighbors Janet & Julian and a doctor from Australia who had been volunteering near Addis Ababa for a few months and was on her way home. She wanted to get a flavor for Ethiopia before returning to Oz. Our guide was terrific, knowledgeable, and charming.

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    Eyob Awraris

    Our party which consisted of our guide, two SUV’s (with drivers) and four travelers initially traveled from Addis Ababa to the north arid area by plane.

    Here is the ancient and sacred city of Axum (Aksum) where we were fortunate to arrive for the annual Hidar-Tsion celebration…festival of St. Mary who is the most revered religious figure for the Ethiopian Orthodox.  Ten’s of thousands come from all over Ethiopia to join in the celebration.  The Ark of the Covenant is said to be housed here…as the Smithsonian says:  “Queen Sheba visited King Solomon in Jerusalem three thousand years ago, and the son she bore him, Menelik, at age 20 visited Jerusalem, from where he brought the ark of the covenant back to Aksum.” It’s been in Ethiopia ever since, according to legend.  No one has seen the ark and there is only one keeper where it is housed.

    It reminded me of the “tomb of Daniel ” in Samarkand where periodically they extend the sarcophagus as he evidently grows in length only.  They will soon have to expand the actual walls of the building where he resides.  Again, no one ever opens the sarcophagus.

    Other amazing sites we saw were the 11 carved churches in Lalibela:   Much of Ethiopia is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  At the end of the 12th and beginning of the 13th centuries, King Lalibela of the Zaghwe dynasty built (with the help of angels) a series of rockhewn churches, considered as one of the wonders of the world. IMG_7991IMG_7948IMG_7963IMG_8589

    The headwaters of the Blue Nile,

    The Simien Mountains National Park where we saw the endemic Gelada (bleeding heart) baboons,

    and the Omo Valley tribes (my favorites, except for the whipping of the groom-to-be’s female relatives),

    The wedding “festival”,

    and Lucy!  She’s housed in Addis Ababa in the Natural History Museum…definitely worth a visit.

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    Say hi!
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    OK…use your imagination.
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    Not really Lucy…a beautiful baby

    Some of my favorite ladies below:IMG_9404IMG_8947IMG_9237IMG_9240

     

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  • Just returned from Morocco on a small group tour (8 peeps and my favored way to travel if not alone). I met my travel buddy Andrew in Tangier for a couple of days, prior to joining the group. We stayed in a 3-story airbnb in the Médina with steep stairs between floor and a wonderful balcony and viewand hired a young man with a very modern doo and wonderful English to show us around

    Yes, boys jumping over the fence.

    to show us around the souk. I have to insert some souk pictures here and indulge my passion for original doors…and awful (offal) animal pics.

    Artistry at work

    Well, not actually a door…

    I had flown into Tangier from Lisbon and Andrew met me at the airport having arrived from Casablanca and driven north to Tangier. We found a great little breakfast place suggested by our guide and a couple of good restaurants…one serving Italian food and the other Moroccan fare.

    Next to our breakfast place
    View from the Italian restaurant
    Doubtful movies are still being shown

    There’s also a cool museum in the Médina that our guide directed us to.

    An antique map that’s “upside down”

    Heading off to Casablanca to join our group. Tangier was definitely worth the detour.

  • Heading off to Geneva to visit CERN and the LHC…something I’ve been wanting to experience since the Higgs Boson discovery.  I guess most people go for the scenery, skiing, and banking secrecy but I just wanted to stand above the protons smashing together 100 feet below and scattering whatever smaller particles the impact revealed.  I probably picked up a few rems as well.  I know it’s pretty nerdy to get excited about some unseen and unseeable particles but it was like standing at the center of the universe for me.

    I did also manage to venture to my other great interest near Geneva…Gruyere with fabulous fondue.  The town was a train ride and short transfer away and well worth the trip.  A castle to visit, chocolate to eat and, of course, yummy fondue overlooking the oh-so-green valley.

  • Thailand?  China?  Burma?  Nope!  I’m back in Portugal and north of Lisbon near Obidos which is pretty much in the center of the country.  This is a crazy “sculpture park” in the middle of nowhere called Buda Heden (Buddha Eden).  It was sponsored by a Portuguese investor and art aficionado after the Buddhas of Banyon were destroyed by the Taliban.  It has since expanded and includes an African sculpture section dedicated to the Shona people of Zimbabwe, modern art (including the Calder below), lovely gardens, and tree-lined walks where a sculpture pops up at every turn.  Oh yes, and blue terracotta warriors!  It’s definitely kitschy but so interesting and well-maintained.  86 acres with pools, hundreds of sculptures of which most are Asian.  And yes, there’s a huge wine shop.

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    From Lisbon I’ve made my way north to Obidos with its de rigueur castle and wonderful enclosed village, Nazare (one of the world’s great surfing venues), and then over to Batalha on my quest of the Avis dynasty which reigned from 1385-1551 and includes good ol’ Henry the Navigator.  I had finished a book about Phillipa, the first English Queen of Portugal who was the daughter that was married off to Joao I by John of Gaunt to seal the relationship between England and Portugal and to help in Joao’s fight with Castile.  They had 6 children who were the Illustrious Generation…one of which was Henry.  He and three of his brothers are buried here at Batalha Monastery along with their parents Phillipa and Joao, pictured below.  The sculpture on the sepulcher has them holding hands…so sweet!!61B44994-97F7-4766-AEB7-B099D2B04252

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    Henry

    Now over at Tomar…I’m on a crusade (oh my, I mean a quest) to the home of the Templar Knights of Portugal.  Even the cobblestone streets have the Templar Cross embedded. There’s not much to see except the castle and convent and a small church where many of them are buried.

    Onward, Christian soldiers…hopefully that era is over…never quite sure.

  • Maybe a bit too much traveling? After my stay in the Basque Country (read previous issue) my next stop was the Azores. I miscalculated a bit, however, by flying to Lisbon to unpack and repack and fly out within 7 hours. Definitely no sleep this time. Anyway, that done, I headed to Terceira Island in the middle of the Atlantic. Again, not sure what to expect but maybe something interesting. If you are a hiker or swimmer or philosopher then this is a lovely place full of beautiful lava formations and swimming holes and plenty of time to ponder your belly-button. But if you’re looking for any culture, conversation or good food, maybe not. It’s very quiet and very empty and on the down-low.

    Flores Island from the Zodiac returning from Corvo – not to be missed
    Corvo caldera – take the minibus up and walk down (1 hour)
    Graciosa Island
    Swimming Hole on Terceira Island
    Terceira Island – an inland man-made lake with cute duckies
    Looking up from the volcanic tube in Terceira

    After Terceira Island I headed to Graciosa and now in Flores where I made a RIB (rigid-hulled inflatable boat) trip to the island of Corvo where there is even less to do. But, again, if you are looking for scenery and sun and water, it is a beautiful place. I do recommend the trip on the “Zodiac”. Even with it being a cloudy day it was fun bouncing over the waves with 16 other people in very happy states of being. It really is the ONLY thing to do in Flores.

    Anyway, rather than going on about how boring this place is I thought it would be nice to meet my four or two footed friends I’ve come across in the Azores on my various nature walks. A little limited in conversation but so darn cute!

  • I’m not sure what I expected but guess I’m guilty of nostalgia or just plain ignorant. (Yes, I know.). I’m picturing peasants and dirndls and folk dancing and rolling hills and well, “Country”. Who knows? Who knew? It’s a happening place with many, many tourists and a party atmosphere. Beachgoers, surfers, boaters.

    San Sebastián/Donostia

    Wow! Pow! Wham! Fireworks to close the Summer Festival. Thousands of people, hundreds of boats of every size in the Bay. Fireworks at 11:45pm. Then to the bars. Moms and Dads rocking the strollers back and forth, a drink on the table and a cigarette in hand. Still going on at 3am.

    Next Morning – noon arisal. At the Patisserie: cortada and jamon and quiejo croissant. Hilarious, a guy picking out chocolates. He wanted an exact piece even though they were all the same type and batch. He picked out a dozen. Cute. And made the clerk organize them in an specific order in the box.

    There is a crazy beach scene. Amazing weather. My stay in the old town, mindful of Lisbon. They have an excellent eclectic museum Telmo. I went on a lovely eco farm tour…solo with a sweet guide. She met me at a botanical restaurant where she treated me to a yummy smoothy. Then on a short train ride to the farm.

    Now on to dinner at a Basque restaurant. Non pintxo. Rice with clams, ribs, red wine. They brought me a bottle. Hope I didn’t buy the whole thing. Oh well. One can’t complain about the food here.

    Several people suggested I take a little stroll via the St. James Way…part of the Compostela de Santiago pilgrims journey. Well, forget the “walk” to Praia. Thinking a nice stroll along the shore with maybe a few steps. Yikes. I’m only half way there on a 6km walk and it’s been one and one half hours. I’ve got to start mentioning my age when someone suggests a scenic walk. Ha!

    Meeting up with lots of French people coming my way. We’re pretty close to the border. Someone carrying an infant in his back. Others with major backpacks. Kids just hopping from one rock to another. People zooming past me. Oh, look! There’s someone actually resting.

    Finally here in Praia (3 1/2 hours)…took a tiny passenger ferry across to a little village. Precious. Still could have gotten here by bus which is certainly how I’m getting home. I did learn one thing…I’m never taking the Camino de Santiago. This walk I took is just 6km of that trail. Good sampling.

    Lunching at the only restaurant that wasn’t full and a little concerned. Not to worry. Quite delicious. Ordered the 20E menu with a Capricious Salad and Duck Magret and Cider. Wow, sour. Evidently a big deal here. Made my mouth pucker. 6% alcohol. Good olives. Starting to feel human.

    Evidently Victor Hugo stayed here as there is a museum dedicated to him. Well, back to San Sebastián via the bus. Won’t do that again.

  • Thoughts from Rome:

    How can people talk soooo much. Sitting here outdoor at a restaurant in Trastevera after a delicious saltimboca romana. The woman next to me from England has not stopped talking. Amazing. Of course, I guess I talk a lot too but I only have myself to bore. She’s with her husband who seems about 90…he picks up a cigarette ignoring her blabbing. There’s a young woman with them..don’t know her role but she was kind enough to get up and smoke in the street. She seems a bit tired of them but maybe she’s a tour guide they hired and has to put on a good face.

    You meet people in the strangest places. Ha ha, I met someone in the toilet of the Vatican museum who was from Oklahoma City. A fellow Okey. I restrained myself from asking if she voted for Trump. People seem to take the 5th when you bring it up.

    Visited the Botanical Gardens today. A nice break but I am sweating and hot. Should have just had a drink…oh, wait a minute, I am having a drink. My extremities are killing me after yesterday’s walking but with a little wine it’s helping. Off to the forum, I think.

    Had to make a stop at Tre Scalini and have a Tartuffo and Brandy. Lots of peeps. I come here every time in Rome. The first time I was 20, so that’s almost a half-century ago. The restaurant is still there. Prices and portions are a bit different now. Grazie mille Europe on $10 day.

    Go at your own pace. Any time I overextend I’m regretful. There are so many cafes and bars and restaurants, one doesn’t have to travel very far to sit down again. It’s important to take advantage of that especially when you’re approaching 70. I wish that I would listen to myself more. Take a pedicab or Uber or a taxi. Don’t tax yourself (let the government do that) and enjoy. Lucky lucky lucky. Count your lucky stars.

    Oh dear, getting maudlin with a guitarist strumming Let it Be. That Remy did me in.