micetrail

The year of living lazily is going well. Heading from Roma on the train to Napoli and then on the ferry to Ischia (“taking the cure” island)…one over from Capri and more “Italian” if you will. This is definitely taking it easy. Nothing to do but stroll, shop, head to the spa and dine.

This would be a place to come back to if you really need a rest. Definitely a resort town. There is a plethora of spas with volcanic hot springs throughout the island. Many are in hotels but there are two major “termes” that are unrelated to hotels. One fantastic one is #Negombo where there are 14 pools, some marine, thermal and therapeutical…and a beach with fine sand. It’s quite lovely and and costs about 35 euros for the day. Towels for rent but better to take your own, as their towels are a bit skimpy. The setting is a lovely garden and pools are placed discretely around the property. You can easily spend the day here…it’s not a health resort, BTW, as smoking seems to be de riguer here…and they have a bar. Mix of ages but many older adults. Did I mention the massages?…a full list of massage types and quite good. I’ll definitely put them on my list of “massages around the world to experience”.

Let this be a warning…think twice before you decide to travel in threes…or rather, think thrice. This is definitely a first world complaint but, nevertheless, it is a warning.

It makes it doubly hard when two of the three speak Italian, and two of the three speak English. Being the solo English-speaking guest of the one that speaks only Italian means you must put up with the bilingual Italian/English speaker speaking Italian 99% of the time to the Italian speaker. Hope you got that!

Anyway, decisions are made without me knowing what decision has been made. Are we leaving now? Are we going that way? Where and what are we eating? Oh, rabbit for three? Oh, you’re not having it? OK, I’m paying 1/2 instead of 1/3 now? I should leave the tip too? What are you f**king arguing about? Oh, you made up? What, you’re not going? Oh, you’re sensitive? Really? Where are you storming off to? Who has the key? where are you? Should we take a taxi? Oh, a bus? Cheaper? It’s raining…oh, it’s your umbrella?

Three days is more than enough with three people…Ben Franklin’s “fish and visitor” truism from Poor Richard’s Almanac couldn’t be more apt.

Timeline: May 12 – Palamos

On Board – not a great fan of cruising but at least you don’t have to unpack and pack. At least that’s what everyone says. The downside is that I don’t think one ever feels 100% on a ship. That pea-brain is always trying to rebalance. After a day or so you get a bit used to it. Good weather helps a lot.

Docking in Palamos and disembarking, Mary and I take a stroll around the island until we find a cafe with internet. I ask the proprietor if he has internet and he looks at me with a bit of disgust and wants to know if I want anything else. Guess he was concerned that I just wanted to use the internet. He has obviously had a bad experience with us tourists. Anyway we manage a cappuccino and a sweet…and are able to get on the web. (This will be a daily occurrence…what is wrong with us??)

Not much to see in Palamos but a church with a black Madonna and a little shopping street. It is quite charming however. There’s a lovely view from the park and we managed our own walking tour. We did have some great scallops (with the foot attached – yummy) and a cheese plate…and the usual glass of wine.

Speaking of wine (and this is a common theme) there were a number of drunkards on the ship. One couple, Harry & Margaret, a British couple, cruise all the time. They basically stay on the ship and sun bathe. Of course they’ve been together for 40 years, so everything’s a bit old hat it seems. As it turns out, they are one of many couples who never disembark. Many of the passengers are “cruisers” and have been on umpteen cruises. Average age ~ 60??

At our evening dinner at the Thomas Keller Grill onboard, we had an encounter with a couple of Trump voters (from North Carolina, of course) who took the Fifth when asked about it. I did get my dander up but restrained myself somewhat…well maybe. Harry, of Harry and Margaret, was in his cups and kept trying to stir the pot. He was moderately successful as I couldn’t bear to associate with them the remaining trip.

Timeline: May 11 – May 12

Continuing the saga of a Year of Living Lazily (YoLL), I’ve made my way to Barcelona where I’m to meet up with my buddy Mary who has managed to use her “old” travel benefits from the airline and get us a berth on the Seabourne Odyssey for a “7-DAY Romantic Riviera Cruise”.

Now mind you, we are not romantically involved, but what the hey! We do act like an old married couple. Not to say we’re old, of course…just putting on an act. We have a lot of fun criticizing each other and, as it turns out, everyone we see on the cruise. Lots of laughs ensuing. I say, “let’s go this way”…and she says “no, let’s go this other way”. Somehow or other it works out. (I usually give in, but don’t ask her because she’ll disagree.)

Barcelona entertained us with good food, our stay in the Gòtic center (read “old”), and getting lost several times. The Picasso Museum was worthwhile as was the visit to the Gaudi (gaudy) designed house.

You looking at Me?Yes, those are fishing poles with diamond ring bait…theme obviously is LOVE We had good luck with the weather and, other than the 5’10” ceilings at our airbnb, causing a few banged heads, the stay was a success.

Now after a night of sailing, we’re docked in Mahon on the Isle of Minorca. Such a sweet town with a wonderful fish market, the usual churches, and houses built into the rock. There’s a gin factory just down the road from the port where you can sample about 26 “species” of gin. I have hope of giving it a try before we leave…but will need a porter to return me to the ship.

Heading off to Palamos tonight….our last stop in Spain.

So much to see…so little time. On the first leg of my vagabond year, I’m headed to the Central Coast of California: Santa Cruz, Monterey, Carmel, Carmel Valley and Arroyo Grande via San Luis Obispo. Lucky person that I am, I’ve been able to beg a room from a few friends.

Today I managed to visit the La Purisima Mission in…Purisima. Based on several other Missions I’ve seen in California including Mission Dolores, Mission San Luis Obispo, Mission San Diego,Mission Santa Ynez, San Juan Capistrano, San Juan Batista, the one in Purisima is the most authentic. A wonderful self-guided tour is assisted by plaques explaining the history, the use of the various rooms, the artifacts, and the art. Purisima is one of the more complete Missions in its restoration.

The setting is beautiful and bucolic. There are several hiking trails beginning at the Mission. Day Parking is $6.00.

If you’re headed down (or up) the coast of California, don’t miss La Purisima.

First stop on my year’s long journey: Carmel Valley. A rustic cabin along the Carmel River (stream) and very quiet. It was quite a winding road of 22 miles and 45 minutes from Carmel where I just had to stop for a wine tasting. It made the road trip a little more exciting.

It’s extremely quiet here and Marcia, my Airbnb host, was lovely. She has 3 small cabins available but tonight it’s just me. Not a damn thing to do except light the wood stove, walk down to the river and read…and drink more wine 🍷.

No 📺 but WiFi, so I’m not out of the loop totally and unfortunately.

Next stop, Arroyo Grande, then back North to Monterey. After that I’ll be heading to Europe where I hope to spend the rest of the year. Who knows? I’ve just got my carpetbag and heading for parts unknown. Fulfilling a wish.

I just can’t stay away from this place. I’d have to say that Lisbon is now my second home and I’m Lovin’ it. My new home away from home is in the Bairro Alto area of Lisbon. Night life, fado and restaurants abound.

I just had a beautiful salmon and risotto lunch with the ubiquitous glass of wine. I would say it’s difficult to have a bad meal here. And today is no exception. The salmon is seasoned and cooked to perfection and topped with sesame and poppy seeds while the mushroom risotto is aldente and fabulous. (20 Euros total!!) The restaurant, Stasha, is just off of Camoes square on Rua da Gravoes. Just 4 minutes from my new home. A single ham hock hangs in the Center of the room. Only about 35 seats. Excellent wine choices and good service. I could get used to this.

I’ve had a whirlwind week (or almost a week). However even with all the forms to be signed and people to coordinate, it’s worked quite well. (My new home that is). Of course I’ve had some fabulous help with my avocado 🥑Manuel. It’s actually advogado (lawyer) but I couldn’t resist.

There are some excellent museums here. Many of them cover the history of Lisbon in some way or other and, of course, there are lots or religiously-themed museums. But almost everywhere you turn there’s a small museum of some sort to examine.

I’m working on making a few friends. So far, four. Housewarming 🎉 party in the making.

OK, so they say to be sure to bring your Yellow Fever Certificate or you will not be permitted to enter the DRC (Democratic Republic of Congo…formerly Zaire). The first step in crossing the border is to toss your Yellow Card into a booth at the entrance to customs where evidently they will be checked by two agents and recorded. 

The next step is to go to the passport control where they will check your visas and give your passport the DRC stamp. 

Then back to the booth to pick up your Yellow immunization card. Oh wait, they seem to have put mine aside. I attempt to retrieve it but am motioned inside. One of the Canadian couple also has some issue with his card and is called inside. 

After much haranguing the agent points to one page of my Yellow Card where I haven’t filled in my name. After pleading with her that it is truly my card and my name is on all the other pages she will have none of it. 

Finally the light goes on. She wants some baksheesh. Now, being by smiley agreeable self I ask her how can we solve this. She says money, suddenly speaking English quite well. I say how much. She says $20. I say how about $15 and pull out a tenner and five one dollar bills. She say she can’t take dollar bills. I pull out a fiver and she proceeds to fill out the blank space on my Yellow Card even though it’s me who should be doing that. Guess she feels she needs to do something for the $15. She hands my card back and I sign that page with my hand shaking trying to hold my temper and keeping my little smiley face on until she gives me back my Yellow Card and passport. (At the outgoing border they will probably say that’s not my signature). 

So this is just a border scam that everyone is in on. I think that even if I had added my name on that one page, they would have found something else wrong.  I was thinking of asking for her manager but he was snoring in the next office with his feet on the desk. I’m not sure how they divide the spoils but at $15-$20 per couple entering it must help their paltry salaries. I just wish they had said up front they wanted some money and it would have saved a lot of time and ill feeling. 

Anyway, I’ve renamed the whole kit and kaboodle the “Unwelcoming Committee”. I have to say it was a small price to pay to get here and see the fabulous highland gorillas. 

Just have your $20 ready!

I’ve been here in Lisbon for over 2 months and am getting the hang of things…or really just hanging out. My initial fascination with this city happened when I was 19 (a very good year) and traveling Europe with my then boyfriend in our VW camper (not diesel 🙃). I remembered the beautiful rendered mosaic sidewalks and the casualness of the city on the Tagus. So here I am again on my 3rd trip and still enjoying the lifestyle, people, and the casual everyday goings-on. 

My intention this time was to find a pied-a-terre where I could bide my time over the next few years.  I haven’t changed my mind but it’s been a bit of a challenge to find the right place at a price I can afford.  I think I’m close however. 

Lisbon is a lovely city and extremely welcoming to everyone. I don’t think you can find a more diverse city without prejudice.  In every little neighborhood parque one has a kiosk serving sandwiches or hamburguers, beer, wine, mixed drinks, etc. from about 10AM to 2AM (not a typo).  Today, sitting, at my local parque and having a Burger and fries, the neighborhood homeless person came around the tables asking for handouts. At one table, the three young people gave him their fries and the server provided him with a coffee and a container for the fries.  I didn’t see anyone  give him money but I wouldn’t rule it out. 

I’ve had some friends visit and was introduced to a very nice woman who invites me to go to the movies and outings from time to time with some of her friends.  Although I’m generally a loner this has been a welcome interlude. It’s just another example of the friendliness and openness of the Portugese. Now, I don’t speak the language and, for the most part, it hasn’t been a problem as everyone seems to have more than a smattering of English.  But shame on me…I need to get cracking on my language lessons. 

One of the benefits of Portugal, I find, is that is set on the extreme edge of the Iberian Peninsula and seems to be somewhat immune to European problems.  It’s also a great jumping off place for European or African journies. The prices are reasonable, the politics seem stable but maybe too liberal and socialistic for my more conservative friends; people are relaxed and non-judgmental and spend an inordinate amount of time at cafes having coffee and pastries. But not a lot of fattys because the hills. will take it all off. 

Saturday is relaxing day and one of seven card-playing days for the ol’ guys in the parque.  Lots to see, places to go…and the good life.  Come visit!

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